Archive for January, 2012


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The shinkansen ride to Kyoto went by in a blur, perhaps fifteen minutes at most. You never really get a sense of the speed of one of those until another passes you by, they are incredibly long, yet they pass each other in fifteen seconds or less. This was to be my fourth trip to Kyoto, and even after that many times the old  capital still managed to impress me and reveal a few more secrets.

After arriving at the Kyoto Cube station we decided to first check in at the hotel we would be staying at. It was just about a ten minute walk or so from the station. I use the word hotel but it really was more like a large guest house. A nice old lady own and ran the place. She asked when we came in if we were English teachers, which is the standard assumption for older looking Americans, while I was 20 at the time, I had a pretty heavy beard which throws the Japanese off about your age. She was a bit surprised when I said we were college students.

The room had a bit more leg room than the tiny room we had stayed at in Osaka, tatami mat floors as well. We headed out to eat lunch after settling in, a few minutes walk led us to an underground McDonalds, strange eating in a McDonalds with no windows, rather crowded as well.

Temples are a dime a dozen in Kyoto with no end of interesting places to visit, there was a temple we had eyed near McDonalds and decided to stop in and check it out before heading out into the city proper.  I had never actually been to this one on my earlier trips. It had a very large sloping roof and an expansive main hall. Outside the main hall were rows of shoes, taken off in order to respect tradition and not damage the tatami mats within. I would recommend anyone visiting Japan to wear easy to slip on shoes. Outside the temple, school girls were feeding a large flock of pigeons, one had two perching on one arm and another one on her other arm. It never fails to see flocks of pigeons near temple grounds.

After that detour, we went over to the bus station near the Kyoto Cube, to pick up some bus passes, which I recommend anyone visiting Kyoto to do. While the subway is the preferred method of travel in Japan, I recommend the bus system in Kyoto, they have some lines really catered to tourists, they are fast, reliable, and clean.

Our first stop was the hanging temple of Kiyomizu, always a great trip. What made this trip really special was that it was during the school trip season in Japan. In Japan, it is typical for schools to have organized class trips to various parts of Japan where a great amount of responsibility is placed upon the students to be independent, function in groups without much adult supervision. They are often given tasks to perform which I encountered in the throng of school children enveloping the temple paths. It was actually quite a sight to see these masses of blue dots among the crowds, those navy blue sailor uniforms.

One little group came up to me to ask questions, since foreigners are often seen visiting Kyoto, they were given a set of questions to ask in English to foreigners they encountered. I could imagine if I had been that age, probably around 11 or so, I would have been terrified to talk to a stranger in a language I barely comprehended, although I suppose children can be quite bold at times. They asked me where I was from, my name, and then if I spoke any Japanese which I answered in Japanese, “yes, a little”. I heard one girl exclaim to the other girl, “Umai” which basically meant, “he’s very good.” It was a nice little moment that I still remember vividly.

After exploring the temple, we walked around the path near by that leads through some gardens and such. Suddenly sounds of a flute came drifting up the path. An rather dapper older gentlemen was playing a flute on a bench. He talked to us for a little bit. Funny thing when we mentioned we were from Alabama he mentioned two things, “Forrest Gump” and “Sweet Home Alabama”, I almost felt like slapping my head, the phrase “Run, Forest, Run” has haunted me for years, you couldn’t run anywhere when I was growing up without someone yelling that at you, it may have died down now in recent years, at least I hope so. He played “When you wish upon a star” for us, it was actually a very unique and pleasant experience, another indelible stamp on this trip to Kyoto.

Our final stop of the day was Kinkakuji, the Golden Pavilion. We actually reached there about five minutes before closing time, but they let us in anyway. Due to this fact, a security guard followed us all the way through, a little odd, but we were the only people there which made it a bit more mysterious and peaceful, as usual you could see a reflection of the pavilion flickering on top of mirror pond. Unfortunately due to the time, the gift shop was already closed. I had hoped to get another traffic safety charm, these little charms of various types are sold at many temples throughout Japan. I bought one at Kinkakuji in 2005, and it still hangs in my car to this day, 7 years later. If I ever go back, I will be sure to pick a few up again.

With the sun setting, we headed in for a early rest for the adventures of the next day and more memorable events were to follow.

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Now I sift through my memories and continue the story where I left off 4 and a half years ago. On our second morning on Osaka, we decided to just wander around for a bit near the hotel and see what we could find. We ended up at a temple nestled among the tall buildings, a typical but wonderful thing in Japan. You never know when a temple will appear out of nowhere, almost like a magic. We spent a little while just admiring the meticulous landscaping and the unique architecture. There seemed to an aura of peace surrounding it even though we were steps away from the hustle and bustle of modern life.

Having skipped breakfast, we stopped in at a convenience store just a few blocks away from the temple. We both got a carton of orange juice and some random fruit filled pastry. They had a little table inside where you could eat at.  There are not called convenience stores for nothing.

The main attraction in Osaka is Osaka castle which is where we headed next. It was actually an interesting trip in itself just to get there.  We took a subway to get close to it which lead out by a very large circular staircase, it was a surprising exit to a subway station, rather grand, standing at the bottom it seemed to reach up to the sky.  We noticed they had a tram service right outside leading to the castle, so we decided it would be fun to ride it over there.    The ride actually lasted for at least fifteen minutes, so it was actually a good idea to take it. The park surrounding the castle was very large, much larger than the others I had seen around castles in Japan.

Osaka castle did not disappoint. Most castles in Japan have a very similar architecture, distinctive from the European variety. They always looked more like fortresses to me than anything else which I suppose is the point, they have a very powerful presence and must have been very awe inspiring among the villagers in feudal Japan.  What impressed me the most was actually not the outside of the castle but the inside. It had the most impressive museum of any castle I had been to. There were lots of ancient armor and swords kept in pristine condition. No photography was allowed inside, so I unfortunately do not have any pictures from it, but it definitely left an impression on me.

After the castle and wandering around the park, we wrapped up the night by eating at an Indian restaurant in the underground mall near the subway. It is fascinating to be underground when eating. You feel like there is a whole underground world in Japan, fully functioning separate from the world above.

The next day after pondering whether to take the local train or the Shinkansen to Kyoto, we decided on the Shinkansen. I wanted Zack to be able to ride it at least once, I sat into the all too familiar seat for the next leg of our journey, the old capital.

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